01/08/2014 by Carl Reynolds
It’s the first day of Kate’s school holidays and we’re leaving Catford at 4.50am to beat the traffic. We fetch up at Bayston Hill outside Shrewsbury at 8.30 for a cooked breakfast with Kate’s mum, Judith; who is a little shocked by Kate’s no4 crew cut. Nevertheless it’s a welcome break before the winding A5 west. We arrive to our Secret Garden accommodation – a lovely two person snug tucked up a hill in Tremadog – around midday and after unpacking head for the beach at Criccieth. I have no idea about Criccieth other than it’s got a famous ice cream seller called Cadwalladers, a castle and a gallery that’s going to hang plenty of Kate’s Mum’s paintings. Our swim is brief…as we encounter not one, but three Lion’s Mane in the first 50m and decide to withdraw before we’re stung. Refreshed we stroll up the hill to an underwhelming ice cream. We don’t return all week. Back in Tremadog we go up a near vertical path and do some scrambling on the crags at the top for some great views over to Snowdonia, south to Harlech and west over the Lleyn.
Day two and we head over to Nefyn and stroll round to Porth Dinllean for a few dips and lunch at the pub on the beach. We then head west a bit exploring unoccupied beaches rich with wildlife and the unfortunate human detritus washed up by high tides. Seals aplenty and the water is refreshingly chill.
Then we ‘discover’ Porth Oer (aka Whistling Sands and Porthor) and return twice to luxuriate in the cool water, the almost perfect 1km wide beach, the reefs rich with life, the clear water, the ace cafe at the end of the beach and the lack of hoolies and dogs.
And thereafter the mountains and llyns of Snowdonia…next post.